'Visions of Modernity' Temporary Exhibition

Yesterday we went over to the Deutsche Guggenheim gallery on Unter den Linden to check out the temporary exhibition, Visions of Modernity.

From Impressionism and Modernism this selection of art has been brought together from the Guggenheim Foundation Collections. It's been on since November but it's well worth a visit if you like modern art and the avante-guarde.

There is a nice selection of paintings form Van Gogh and Picasso, Cézanne and Kandinsky among others. 

Kandinski's 'Decisive Rose'

It's only on until the 17th of February so make sure you go this week to take a look.

Cost: 

4€ per adult

Website: 

deutsche-guggenheim.de    

Address: 

Deutsche+Guggenheim 

Unter den Linden 13/15

10117

Berlin

Closest U-Bahn:

Französische Strasse (line 6) 

German Bureaucracy: The good and the bad

The first few weeks of 2013 have flown by in a whirl and I'm only just getting back into the swing of things after the Christmas holidays. A bad case of the winter flu delayed my return to work and led to me spending a week sweating, shivering and coughing in bed, lovely!

We also discovered that the paperwork we have for my husbands residence in Germany was actually incorrect so he had the joy of various unsuccessful trips to the "Ausländerbehörde" (Foreigners Office). 

I also became the sheepish owner of my first BVG transport fine as I got caught on the S-Bahn for not having a valid ticket :(      

In all, January 2013 has opened my eyes up to some of the good and the bad of German bureaucracy. I'm quite impatient to start my rant so let's get the bad out of the way first.

I've lived in Spain and suffered the disorganised and extremely unhelpful bureaucratic process there.  I've had so many disappointing and frustrating experiences so I don't think it can get much worse anywhere else. For a little insight into what it's like trying to get anything sorted in Spain, check out this great fictional short film which, although exaggerated for dramatic purposes, sums it up quite nicely! 

Bureaucracy is far better in Germany but there are still some loopholes and unnecessary processes that we've experienced. For example, in order for us to register as a resident (Anmeldebestätigung) we needed to show a contract for a house BUT in order to get a contract for a house we needed to show our Anmeldebestätigung form...humm. That was a tricky one to start off with back in April 2012.

Last year my husband was mistakenly given a form that said he was European and had the right to live and work in Germany. So, we spend months thinking we had everything sorted (we didn't find out because he was doing freelance work and didn't need any docs). We found out when confused immigration officers delayed us leaving Germany for a trip to England as they were holding his Mexican passport in one hand and the form in the other and pondering how it was possible. After a long wait and lots of phone calls, they told us we needed to get the correct papers and sent us on our way. To their credit they were very nice and apologised for making us wait whilst they sorted out the issue.

So, the beef I have with the Ausländerbehörde office is the unnecessary waiting around we had to do and the unclear instructions as to what you actually need to take with you. In fact, I'm quite disappointed with the general attitude of staff towards foreigners in all the official offices we've been to. Most people reluctantly speak English (even though most of them can) and you have to bully them into helping you. I understand the idea that you are in Germany so you should make an effort to speak German but they should give people a chance before passing judgement and putting up their barriers. Loose the attitude people!  

It is possible to book an appointment at the Ausländerbehörde but the earliest one you could book now is April 2013! The only other option is to arrive at the crack of dawn to line up, get a ticket and then wait hours to speak to someone. You'd think that in a country as organised as Germany, they would have a better system.

The first time hubbie went, it was closed (his fault as he didn't check the holiday schedule even after I warned him!). The second time, he arrived too late (even though he arrived early) and there were no more tickets left for that day! The third time was looking good. He got his ticket but was told that I had to be there as well to sign the forms. Luckily I was off work but unluckily I was shivering in bed with the flu!

So, I had to drag myself out of bed and head on over to meet him. I was so out of it and drugged up on flu medicine, that I didn't pay attention to the date. I was stopped by ticket checkers on the S-Bahn who informed me that my transport pass was two days out of date. No sympathy for my plague-like appearance, Bam there's your 40 Euro fine madam. Damn it!

The waiting room was not the nicest experience (no one wants to sit there for hours normally, let alone while you're running a fever). The worst thing of all was that when we eventually got to speak to someone they told us that we needed our marriage certificate translated! Aggghhhh. So we went home with our tail between our legs. What a waste of time!

A week later, armed with our translated certificate and all the other numerous forms we had been told to bring, we went back (woke up at 5am) and 6 hours later walked out of there with a permit number for an impressive 5 years, woo hoo (even though we only asked for two)! It only cost about 30 euros which is incredible considering that for two years in the UK he would need to pay over 800 pounds and for two years in Spain about 200 Euros. Success!

The experience that really impressed me about Germany though was my visit to the doctors. It was extremely easy and efficient. I felt like a celebrity in the posh doctors office that had fresh fruit and drinks as well as very comfy leather chairs in the designer waiting room. I didn't get chance to wait there though as not a moment after my bum touched the seat, I was called by the doctor who examined me and prescribed my medicine and the doctors note for work. I was in, out and back in bed within a hour. That's what you get when you have a functioning private healthcare system I suppose and not the grotty, plastic, over-crowded waiting rooms I'm used to.    

   

A trip with Air Berlin

I think I have spent way too many years taking short haul flights with low cost airlines around Europe because my recent trip was a surprisingly happy and pleasant one. We flew from Berlin to Budapest with the Berlin-based airline, Air Berlin, and we were very impressed with the service. 

The first advantage this airline had in comparison to the typical 'RyanAirs' of the world is that on both legs of the journey we didn’t have to queue at all to check in our bags. In Budapest airport, on the way back, I was reminded of the usual hours of waiting around as I walked past hundreds of people queuing for EasyJet, Wizz and RyanAir flights. I couldn’t hide the smug grin as I strolled up to the lady at the check-in desk who was waiting to serve me with a friendly smile (smiling staff? hummm…another thumbs up for Air Berlin).

There was no hassle at the boarding gate either. No tetris luggage-measuring exercises, no suspicious glares at me or my hand luggage and nobody looked me up and down to make sure I wasn’t trying to smuggle in an extra bag under my coat. In fact, the same women who had checked us in was also at the boarding gate and was still happy to serve us with her wide smile.

My husband was a little scared when he saw the size of the plane as it was the smallest plane he had ever travelled in. In fact, it was a Q400, a twin-engine plane with visible propellors, the smallest of the Air Berlin fleet with a capacity of 76 passengers. To make it worse I had chosen wing seats for us so he had a perfect close up view of the spinning blades.  

It was all 'plane' sailing though and during take off and landing we had some spectacular views of both cities. The calm and quiet flight lasted about an hour and a half, just enough time to make it worth waiting for the plane and not too long to get a numb bum. The seats were comfortable and the decoration did not give you a headache as it was neither bright fluorescent yellow nor cringeworthy orange. 

The cabin crew seemed relaxed, calm and friendly and the service was quick but without the mad rush to get through the cabin with the refreshments tray so they can go on to sell you lots of useless crap after charging you a fortune for a tiny coke and a minuscule hot panini. To top it off we got a complimentary juice and apple flavour biscuits during the trip. On leaving the airplane you also get offered a very nice Air Berlin chocolate heart to remind you of the pleasant experience. 

All in all I felt satisfied with my short but nice Air Berlin trip and I would recommend flying with them if you get chance. The only disadvantage I can see is that their routes are more limited than other airlines but if they fly to the place you want to go, check 'em out. By the way, Budapest is a wonderful city to visit and perfect for a weekend get away from Berlin :D   

The (Second) Best Kebap in Berlin

When searching for that perfect kebab in Berlin most people will tell you to head to Mehringdamm to Mustafas Gemüsekebap. If you want to get a similar döner experience but without having to wait in the queues that are typical at Mustafas then we know just the place for you.

The Nur Gemüse-Kebap stand on Hermanstrasse in Neukölln is, what has been described to us as, "the second best kebap shop in Berlin". That description was good enough to get me drooling so we took a little trip to Hermanstrasse to get our fingers greasy. The stand itself is right on the entrance to the Hermanstrasse S-bahn at the center of all the Hermanstrasse transport links so it's very easy to find. The staff are friendly and speak at least enough kebap-related English to make ordering easy for dummies.

A Dürüm kebap before it is wrapped.

We decided to try out a typical döner kebap and, my favourite, a dürüm kebap. The dürüm has the same ingredients as the döner but is rolled up inside a toasted flatbread called lavaş rather than being served in the normal bread roll. It is a little more expensive (normally about 1 euro more) than a typical döner but it's worth it in my opinion.

A döner kebap with a Turkish yogurt drink, Ayran.

I am no stranger to kebaps. In fact, I have spent many a drunken walk home biting into a spicy döner and countless Saturday afternoons curing a hangover with a tasty dürüm. I have eaten good ones and the truely terrible ones. I've experienced döners that have been cold, soggy and undercooked, with too little sauce or meat but I must say that the Nur Gemüse Döner has to be one of the best, if not THE best, kebaps I have ever eaten. I have not yet been to Mustafas and I do know that the Nur Gemüse style is a copy so I will have to wait till my next visit to Mehringdamm to compare the two.

 
I think what made this kebap different is that I could tell the meat was good quality. It was not as processed as other döner meat I have tried. Maybe the fact it is chicken rather than lamb makes it taste different too as most kebaps I have eaten have been lamb or a mixture of lamb and chicken. The addition of red peppers layered with the meat on the spit keeps the meat juicy and flavoursome. Also, it's the first kebap I have tried where they add roasted vegetables to the mix and a dash of lime juice at the end.

Not only are the ingredients good quality and fresh but the combination of ingredients is balanced with just the right amount of meat to salad ratio. The sauces are also good with a choice of spicy, garlic and normal sauce and their flavours are not too strong or light. I recommend trying it with a Turkish yogurt drink called Ayran. For me it was a little too salty but the cool drink is a refreshing compliament to the heavy flavours of the kebap.

If you want to try their kebaps for yourself I believe that it is open every day and closes at around 10pm.

Here is the address and contact details: 
S-Bahn - Hermanstrasse
U-Bahn - Line 8 Hermanstrasse
Hermannstraße 113 , 12051 Neukölln Berlin
Tel: 0163 7877 439
nur-gemuese-kebap@gmx.de 

Six things to do before moving to Berlin to live and work as a freelancer!

Being a freelancer is great because you are your own boss but it can also be complicated to move to a different country and find work. Here is a list of six things that, in hindsight, would have helped us out!

Do your Market research

This may seem obvious but we made the mistake of arriving and assuming that German companies wanted to hire us even though we didn’t speak German. Just because you are a successful freelancer in your own country, it doesn’t mean that this will necessarily be the case in Berlin. Do some research into your field and Berlin. Is there a healthy industry? Do you need to speak German to do your job? Do you need any German qualifications or licences before-hand? It’s a good idea to do as much research as possible and even contact other people who have moved to Berlin. You can do this by searching for internet forums related to your profession to see what others are talking about. If you make contacts before you arrive, it will help you smooth the transition. Some great English language forums about all things in Berlin can be found on ExBerliner and ToyTown.

Make friends with a German!

This has to be the most useful advise we can give you. If you don’t speak a word of German when you arrive, you will be at a huge disadvantage when you have to sort out all your paperwork (and there is a lot to fill in!). In general, Germans speak marvellous English but if you turn up at a government office and expect everyone to just communicate in English, you will be surprised at the reluctance of the officials there to utter even one word. Going through the bureaucratic process with your German friend by your side will make things a lot smoother and less stressful. There are many language exchange evenings in Berlin (a good page to start your search) so head along to one of those as soon as you arrive and start making friends! If you don’t know any Germans, make an effort to learn a few key phrases and niceties beforehand. Even trying to apologise for not speaking German, in German, will get you that little bit further!

Make plans for health insurance.

Health care insurance contributions are obligatory here in Germany and your employer normally pays on your behalf whilst deducting it from your salary every month. However, if you are a freelancer, public health care insurance is your responsibility and it can be very expensive. A cheaper option is to opt for private health care insurance. There are some international insurance policies that cover you in Germany and they can be cheaper than German companies. Find an English-speaking insurance brooker (Optimum Captial helped us out) to find you the best deals but be prepared to pay at least 150-200 euros a month in health care.

Find a short-term place to live before you arrive.

If you are lucky enough to know people that you can stay with when you arrive then well done! If you are not, then read on. Finding a permenant place to live in Berlin these days is extremely difficult if you are not already settled here due to the high rate of immigration. Many landlords expect you to provide a list of papers as evidence that you are responsible enough and rich enough to live in their house. If you are new to Berlin, chances are you will probably not have any of these papers yet! Most places also ask to see a job contract too and for freelancers this can prove difficult! Make sure you plan ahead and also arrive with enough money to support yourself for at least a month or two. Consider short-term subletting, couch-surfing or flat shares before finding your own place. A good place to start a sublet search is WG-Gesucht. It has a lot of options for customising your search and there is an option to translate the page and its contents into English. 

Learn German!

In day-to-day activities, you can “get by” speaking English in Berlin. However, depending on your field, if you want to be considered as an employable freelance worker in Berlin, learning German will help you a lot. It will also help you thorough the initial paperwork process as mentioned above. For me, German seems like a very difficult language to learn, and I haven’t put aside enough time to practice although I should. I speak Spanish fluently which is causing problems inside my brain as it pops out as my default language when I speak to Germans. At least I’m trying! So, do as in point one and make friends with a German and get them to help you practice! Also, there are many online resources and mobile apps that can help you with the basics. We'll leave them up to you to find.

Find out what paperwork you need to complete when you arrive (and in which order!)

Depending on your situation you will need to fill in and apply for a number of things before being allowed to work. For instance one of the first papers you need to get is the residence certificate. You need this paper before you can rent a flat or open a bank account, for example. However, you need to have a rental contract before being able to get the residence certificate! We solved this paradox (eventually) by finding a temporary place to live and getting a sublet contract. Always ask the person you want to sublet from if they can actually give you a contract before you decide to sublet as many people sublet ‘illegally’ and will be reluctant to give you written proof. You will also need to register as a freelancer and apply for a tax number (which you have to wait two weeks for).  Check out this useful guide to Freelancing in Germany for more info. 

Good Luck!

Boat Party Language Exchange

The party's just getting started at sunset.

Over the last few months we’ve been calling Berlin our home and an important part of discovering the city has been to go out, meet people and make new friends.

We found out about a few different language exchanges in Berlin and in April we decided to check out The Boat Party, which takes place every Wednesday evening.

The Boat Party is a great place to meet new people and network, especially if you are new to the city. 

We’ve been along to the Boat Party Language Exchange, hosted every week by Charles Clawson, four times now and every time there is a new crowd of people to talk to. I’ve been to many language exchanges before and this one is certainly unique for me in the fact that it takes place on a boat!

The Eastern Comfort is a boat-hostel that is permanently moored on the river Spree overlooking the Oberbaumbrüke. It is in a great location and easy to reach via Warschauerstrasse U-Bahn, tram and S-Bahn stations. Also, right outside is the start of the famous East-Side Gallery, an open-air art gallery with murals and art painted onto a strip of the original Berlin Wall that stretches all the way to the Ostbahnhof (The main East Berlin train station).

Sunset on the Spree.

The evenings kicks-off at 19:30 with a few snacks and some light chatter. Most people arrive a little later at around 20:00 when the night starts to take full swing. There is normally a very international crowd and I have had the pleasure to talk to Germans, Spaniards, Italians, Polish, Russians, Israelis, Australians, Kiwis and Americans so far!

I’ve enjoyed speaking Spanish and English but haven’t had much luck with German yet as counting from 1 to 11 and blurting out the few words of the German I already know is no proper base for a conversation!

The Oberbaumbrüke

Live music accompanies the event each week and there is normally a different band or artist to get the party atmosphere pumped up. The chatter doesn’t die down until at least 12pm which is when the bar closes, I think (I’ve either been too drunk to notice the time or left a little earlier due to lack of beer funds!).

All in all, I recommend the Boat Party to Berlin "newbies" as a great place to safely meet new and interesting people in Berlin. Have you already been? What did you think of the event?

The next Boat Party is taking place this Wednesday evening the 6th June, 2012 and costs 2 euros to attend (one euro to get in and another to pay for the band). During the summer there is also a BBQ (let's hope it's not still raining!) if you get hungry.

You can check out the Institute for Cultural Diplomacy website for updates about The Boat Party and other English language events in Berlin.

Enjoy!